Starlink buying guide
Starlink Wired Connection & Ethernet Setup: What to Buy
Quick answer:
To connect Starlink by cable, first check your generation: the Gen 3 router has two built-in Ethernet ports, while the Gen 2 router needs the official Starlink Ethernet Adapter. From a single Ethernet port you expand by adding an unmanaged gigabit switch — pick the port count to match how many devices you plug in, not by a ranking. This guide walks the path for each generation and names the specific parts to buy.
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Step 1 — Know your Starlink generation
Everything about wiring Starlink starts with which hardware you have, because the two common home generations handle Ethernet very differently. Open the Starlink app to confirm before buying anything.
- Gen 3 (Standard, sold from 2024): the router has two built-in Ethernet (LAN) ports. You can plug a computer, a switch, or your own router straight in — no adapter needed.
- Gen 2 (rectangular / Standard Actuated): the Wi-Fi router has no Ethernet port. A wired connection requires the Starlink Ethernet Adapter, which plugs inline between the dish cable and the router and adds one LAN port.
If you are on Gen 2, the Ethernet Adapter is the one non-negotiable purchase; there is no third-party substitute, because the cable and connector are Starlink-specific.
Step 2 — Add wired ports with a switch
One Ethernet port is enough for a single device or one uplink, but most people want several things wired: a desktop, a game console, a TV box, a NAS. That is what an unmanaged gigabit switchis for — it is a plug-and-play box that turns one port into many. “Unmanaged” means no configuration; “gigabit” means each port handles up to 1 Gbps, which is far more than residential Starlink delivers, so the switch never becomes the bottleneck.
Pick the size by how many devices you actually plug in, not by a “best switch” list:
| Wired devices | Switch to get | Ports | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2–3 | TP-Link TL-SG105 | 5 | Smallest common gigabit switch; one port feeds the uplink, leaving four. |
| 4–6 | Netgear GS308 | 8 | Room to grow; metal case, fanless, plug-and-play. |
| 4–6 (alt.) | TP-Link TL-SG108 | 8 | Equivalent 8-port option if you prefer TP-Link; same unmanaged, gigabit design. |
All three are unmanaged gigabit switches, so the choice comes down to the port count you need and which brand you already trust — not a performance ranking. Count your wired devices, add one for the uplink to Starlink, and buy the next size up so you have a spare port.
Step 3 — Get the cable right
For the runs between the Starlink router, a switch, and your devices, a Cat6 Ethernet cable is a safe default — it carries gigabit with headroom. For any length that goes outdoors or through a wall toward the dish or a router, use an outdoor-rated (UV-resistant) Cat6 cable so sunlight and weather do not degrade it. Cat5e also handles gigabit on short indoor runs, but Cat6 leaves more margin for longer pulls.
Using your own router or mesh (bypass mode)
If the goal is better Wi-Fi rather than just wired ports, you put the Starlink router into bypass mode in the app so it stops broadcasting Wi-Fi and hands routing to your own router or mesh. On Gen 3 you connect your router to a built-in port; on Gen 2 you connect it through the Ethernet Adapter. For choosing the mesh itself, see our mesh Wi-Fi for Starlink guide, and for one worked example the Starlink with eero mesh walkthrough.
Do you even need a wired connection?
Wi-Fi is fine for most browsing and streaming. A wired link is worth the parts when you want the steadiest connection for a desktop, a game console, or a work machine — Ethernet removes Wi-Fi interference and usually trims a little latency and jitter. If you are unsure, run our Starlink speed test over Wi-Fi and then again over a cable to see whether wiring actually changes your result before you spend on a switch and cable.
A quick shopping recap: Gen 2 owners start with the Ethernet Adapter; add a 5-port or 8-port gigabit switch for more wired jacks; and connect it all with Cat6 cable (outdoor-rated where it faces the weather).
Don't just read — check your own setup.
Run a Starlink-focused speed test and compare download, upload, ping, and jitter against your real connection.
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FAQ
Does the Starlink Gen 3 router have Ethernet ports?
Yes. The Gen 3 standard router has two built-in Ethernet (LAN) ports, so you can plug a device, switch, or your own router straight in without an extra adapter. Confirm which router you have in the Starlink app before buying anything.
Does Starlink Gen 2 need an Ethernet adapter?
Yes. The Gen 2 (rectangular / Standard Actuated) Wi-Fi router has no Ethernet port, so a wired connection needs the official Starlink Ethernet Adapter, which plugs inline between the dish cable and the router. There is no way to add a wired port to that router without it.
Will adding a switch slow down my Starlink?
No. An unmanaged gigabit switch passes up to 1 Gbps per port, and residential Starlink download speeds sit well below that, so the switch has plenty of headroom and is not the bottleneck. A switch adds ports; it does not change the speed arriving from the dish.
Can I use my own router or mesh system with Starlink?
Yes. Put the Starlink router into bypass mode in the app so it stops doing Wi-Fi and hands routing to your own router or mesh. On Gen 2 you need the Ethernet Adapter to get the cable out to your router; on Gen 3 you use one of the built-in ports. See our mesh Wi-Fi guide for the wireless side.
What Ethernet cable should I use for Starlink?
A Cat6 cable is a safe default for gigabit runs. For any length that runs outdoors or through a wall to the dish or router, use an outdoor-rated (UV-resistant) Cat6 cable. Cat5e also carries gigabit over short runs, but Cat6 gives more headroom.
Do I need a switch or a router to expand?
A switch only adds more wired ports on the same network — use it when you have run out of ports for wired devices. A router (or mesh) creates and manages the network and Wi-Fi. If you just need extra Ethernet jacks, a switch is the cheaper, simpler choice.